How to Avoid Common DIY Tiling Mistakes

You have made the decision to tackle tiling. Congratulation! There are many great YouTube videos out there and of course advice from trusted home improvement and specialty stores. But before you get started, let’s tackle some of the common things that can go awry.

Shower Walls

Let’s start with a misconception on grout and thin-set/mortar. It is not waterproof! The tile itself is likely water impermeable, however water can seep through the grout and mortar. And even worse, through cracks in the tile and/ or the grout. Relax! This is normal. This is where the right wall preparation is important.  Cement board should be secured to the studs and all seams taped with alkali resistant fiberglass tape. It is a good idea to run a thin coat of thin-set over the taped seams to allow for a flat backing for the tile. Sand where needed. Once that dries, this is where the waterproofing comes in. RedGard is a common waterproofing agent that can easily be painted on the cement board. Of course, there are other brands and follow the brand’s instructions for application. Once dry, tiling can begin.

While cement board and waterproofing agents are one of the more common methods for shower walls, there is another option called Kerdi-Board. It is typically more expensive and requires a special product for seams and holes. But you will gain ease of use in a lighter product, no dust in cutting and elimination of a secondary waterproofing coat since the board itself is waterproof.  Whatever method you use, make sure your backing is deemed waterproof before installing tiles.

Shower Floors

Arguably the most labor-intensive (and frustrating) step of “pre-tiling” as sloping for drainage must be correct, perfectly smooth surface to prevent tile cracking AND waterproof. First, if you do not want a tiled floor, a shower pan can be bought in standard or custom sizes. This will ensure the proper waterproofing and sloping. However, if you’re determined for that tile shower floor, there are many methods. Goof Proof has pre-pitch, quick pitch, weep hole protectors and curb kits. For a “first timer,” these are great tools. In your measurements, don’t forget the curb height will need to factor in your shower subfloor.  There are other great options as well, so talk to your home improvement experts for the best solution for your project. A waterproof liner or RedGard equivalent will need to be used as water can permeate through the grout / thin-set and need to work its way through the weep holes to the drain.

Your biggest takeaways from this: properly sloped subfloor to the drain, waterproofing and perfectly smooth (cracks, bubble or uneven surfaces can crack tiles). Speaking of cracked tiles, ensure your shower floor tiles are not rated to be wall tiles. For example, some of the fragile mosaic tiles are not suited to be walked on.

Floors

The quality of your subfloor is super important. A crack here or unlevel surface there can ultimately crack your tile once installed. Additionally, having a pliable surface under the tile will help if there is any movement in the subfloor. As an example, let’s say you have a cement board subfloor. Inherently you will have seams where the two boards come together. That void is enough to crack a tile when stepped on. Filling the void mortar / alkali resistant fiberglass tape and letting it dry prior to tiling is an easy way to help prevent this.  Having an anti-fracture membrane is also important. If a crack in the subfloor does eventually form, or plywood expands and contracts with humidity, this layer will help protect your tile. While it takes a little extra time and cost, we much prefer this to a cracked tile down the road after all the hard work that went into tiling! Anti-fracture membranes typically come in rolls or paint-on form.

Also ensure you tile is rated as a floor tile versus a wall tile!

We hope these quick tips can help save you from the dreaded “re-do” of tiling down the road! Happy Tiling!